Chiang Mai

I found myself in Chiang Mai during Yi Peng, the annual lantern festival. Dear reader you must believe me when I tell you, wholeheartedly, that this was not intentional. I don’t yearn to be photographed holding paper that will one day litter a nearby rice field. Interestingly, locals told me that paper lanterns are categorically banned, for environmental reasons. It therefore made Yi Peng the largest community-led criminal experience of my life.

Preparations were still very much underway as the sun edged towards the horizon. Each shop, restaurant, museum and temple had plans that had to be executed. They were all impressively ambitious. I can certainly see a profitable business future creating hollow paper and card ornaments, in Chiang Mai. My blog on Bangkok already paid homage (sort of) to the booming marigolds trade. Celebrations are certainly in the national spirit.

We’ve already discussed the general pollution issue with the paper lanterns. I’m sorry to report that it doesn’t end there. A key element of the festival is to put paper products into the river, where they slowly burn before sizzling into a water-consumed oblivion. Some of the more upstanding members of the Chiang Mai community sell wooden rafts made of trees and adorned with flowers. Pretty good. But of course they then plant a wax candle surrounded by metal at the centre. No cigar. These feisty dragons look like a fun way for children to participate in the annihilation of the critical local water supply.

In presumably an act of self-sacrifice, to make amends for the paper festival, the local construction workers have a low regard for health and safety. I didn’t see anyone die myself, but if you listen carefully on the back streets, you can hear the unmistakeable sound of screams interspersed with drilling and hammering.

Not quite to Japan’s standards, but still a comforting find on almost all street corners. Fancy a hot pocket? Or a cigarette? Or a family sized pack of adult nappies? This is the place for you.

What ever happens, wherever you are in Thailand, you can rest assured that a Pad Thai will be close. If you have a peanut allergy like me, you might find this to be an enormous affront to your very being. It’s a shame really, I loved the energy of all the people that throw them together on a simple hot plate. Sometimes they sing a song as the meal is produced. It’s entertaining and nutritious and perhaps they remain the best adjectives for Thailand.